Propagating by Grafting, Layering and Cuttings

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Propagating by Grafting, Layering and Cuttings

To share information on propagating plants such as fruit and nut trees and bushes or any food growing plants, herbs or beneficial companions for which seed growing is not so viable or reliable

Members: 95
Latest Activity: Sep 10

Discussion Forum

almonds

I collected some old almond cuttings from an 1880s orchard was wondering how best to try and grow them? Can i graft them onto maybe a peach or apricot?  Or would I be better to try and grow them as…Continue

Started by Denise Jun 24, 2014.

Seedling Plum Trees 6 Replies

We have seedling plum trees coming up here and there.  I have saved a few and given them space in the orchard but I'm not sure if they are worth waiting for.  Does anyone have experience of seedling…Continue

Started by Janine Williams. Last reply by Blockhill Sep 4, 2013.

Chilean Guava cuttings, blueberry and pomegrante cuttings??? 5 Replies

Hello,so I have took a few cuttings from my Chilean Guava (Myrtus ugni), did not apply rooting hormone, yet around half of them rooted when just stuck into some potting mix, left outside in the heat…Continue

Started by Luke Fullard. Last reply by marie therese ward Jan 30, 2013.

Scionwood 5 Replies

Does anyone have any scionwood to sell/trade?I am looking for Seckle or Winter Nelis or other old fashioned pears and a decent old fashioned peach.I have the following available: Calville Blanc…Continue

Started by Todd Saunders. Last reply by Jacob Verbeek Jul 25, 2012.

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Comment by Denise on July 27, 2011 at 2:52pm
Thanks for that. I have 5 apple trees that were here when we moved in, about 10-15 years old, all the same, bland and not good for cooking or storing. I hope to try and graft onto a few of those but trying to work out where, they have an open frame of about 5 branches but they are quite big. Wondering if I should just cut one tree off and use the trunk to graft to, saw it done in a book but it looked tricky and rather drastic! I shall keep researching and listening to any advice...
Comment by David Bell on July 27, 2011 at 11:13am
The time is just right for taking scion wood (your grafting material). Take whippy stems (the growth from lasr season), wrap in damp newspaper, and keep in the fridge until well into bud break (say a couple of weeks). Then make your graft. You can graft on to an existing tree, or, if you have a growing cutting or seedling, that will be your best root stock. I will be doing the same with a couple of largish seedlings (8 or 9 years old) myself.
Comment by Denise on July 27, 2011 at 9:31am
Is it to late now(mid winter) to take apple cuttings to try and graft? I've just remembered a brilliant old wild apple on the rd side that we collect from, it has large odd shaped yellow/green fruit and is a great flavoured cooker.
Comment by David Bell on February 8, 2011 at 1:00pm

Plums propagate easily from cuttings. However, late autumn is the best time, after the leaves have fallen

 

Why graft? Cuttings take at least 6-8 years to start bearing. Grafts will usially bear at 4 years.

 


Also, grafting allows a choice of grafting stock. I think that there are a few dwarfing varieties for the smaller garden. For grafting, take the cuttings later in winter, wrap in damp newspaper, and graft when the stock is well into bud break.

 

Note. Some plums take a VERY long time to bear. I seem to remember that Damsons take 21 years - from grafting.

And I do not know if it is still there. There was a greengage growing in a hedge around Auckland. Probably a good time to go looking right now. Directions if interested.

Comment by Lorraine Barnett on February 7, 2011 at 9:55pm

Can anyone tell me the answer to WHY graft??

I have abeautiful golden Gage and thought I would just take cuttings??? Also my neighbour has some VERY old fruit trees... Whats the best way, please! 

Comment by Todd Saunders on November 3, 2010 at 4:49pm
I tried some cleft grafts on a number of plums in early spring.

I've noticed a couple that were almost vertical failed while all those that had more of a horizontal alignment have taken well.

I didn't have particularly good materials and was in a rush so just wrapped them with plastic from shopping bags and held them in place with rubber bands.

Does the alignment of the graft/differences in sap flow have a significant bearing on this type of graft? Or is it more likely water was getting into the plastic. Just curious as this is my first time using this method.
Comment by Vicki Hill on February 28, 2010 at 5:55pm
Thanks David, I will try again in a couple of months then assuming autumn will be a bit later given the late summer weather we're getting now. You've piqued my interested with your info on budding. I've never heard of it - will have to do some research :)
Comment by David Bell on February 28, 2010 at 5:45pm
Vicki, try again just after the fruit is ripened and harvested. The best time for cuttings is autumn, when the plant is relatively dormant. For grafting, immediately after bud break in the spring (apples, pears, quinces), for budding (stone fruits, particularly peaches and nectarines), into the new year, when the bark lifts freely. You check the bark by making a small tee-cut in the bark, and try lifting one corner. If it lifts cleanly and easily, the stock is ready to take a bud. DO NOT try to bud onto stock that is older than second year. The bud will grow too big too fast, and break off in any sort of breeze.
Comment by Vicki Hill on February 28, 2010 at 11:18am
Newbie here - hello! I've been trying (unsuccessfully) to get feijoa cuttings to strike. After learning a little bit about cuttings at a community gardening course I took softwood cuttings of a relatives tree around the end of spring/early summer, took most of the leaves off, chopped the remaining leaves in half, potted them up in store bought compost (maybe too rich?) in our greenhouse and watered them often. Over a few weeks they all shriveled up and went brown. Obviously I did something (or a lot) wrong - can anyone help? I'd also like to try aerial layering on some of our existing trees. Anyone know where I can find sphagnum moss?
Comment by David Bell on November 30, 2009 at 11:52pm
Many plants, trees and shrubs can be propagated by aerial layering. Even citrus.
And now is a good time. Partially ring-bark, and wrap that part in damp spaghnum moss in a well-sealed plastic bag - that is, sealed to the branch you are wanting to grow. No hurry - it may takr 6-9 months for the layer to produce roots..
 

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