Our lovely orchard - trees

Kia ora koutou, lets start planning our orchard. We have two orchard zones - the main area 56m2 - the line of trees around the back of the carpark 18 (lineal) m Lets start listing here what trees (fruit and nut) we would like to have in our orchard and how much room they need so we can put out shipping list together. Lets also list any planting/care tips we know of so we can start building our knowledge base.

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  • I've got a little chestnut seedling, about 30cm high languishing on my patio, I'd love to add it to the orchard where it can thrive a little easier.
  • Great, I'll bring this list to the meeting. We have to make our final decision then :)
  • If you Google 'growing fruit trees Wellington' you'll find the Karori Garden Centre has some good suggestions for fruit trees, including apples and the wonderful Greengage. Lemons and figs do well here. Not sure about the nuts.
    Lynsey
  • Regarding the talk we had on grafting at the last meeting.

    Here's some info from Andrew:


    "Hi Andrew
    Grafting is done when the sap begins to rise, in the Spring. Hence October is good for grafting (now).
    For your purposes, you would want to take grafting wood in the winter, when the trees are dormant, wrap it in damp newspaper, put it in a plastic bag, then in the fridge, - then as long as it doesn't dry out, it should be fine till the Spring, for the grafting.
    You could visit the trees during the fruiting time, and tag any you want to take grafting wood from, then you would know them easily in the winter. (The trees look different with no leaves on, when you come to collect the wood - from experience). (Williams & Kettle can get in bold coloured tree labels).

    The best grafter I know, is Murray Jones of TreeLife Organic Nursery in Wanganui (www.treelife.co.nz) ph 06 3425787 (0272936922


    Charles Barrie said:
    Great stuff Joanna, I'll print off this list and bring it to the next planning meeting

    Joanna Morton said:
    Here's what I'd love to see, plus some notes on what they require. I don't know whether our site is going to be appropriate for all of these, but this is a start to thinking about it. It would also be great to complement the trees we planted at the first site by planting extra/different varieties of apples, pears etc., to extend the fruiting season.

    Quince
    3.5–4.5 m high, can also get dwarf forms
    Plant 3–6 m apart
    Need moist, deep soil (!) and a sunny location
    Thrive in cooler-temperate climates
    Fruits March–May

    Plum
    9 m or more high (maybe you can get dwarf varieties though?)
    Plant 3–6 m apart
    Fruits in summer
    Moist, well-drained soil in full sun with some protection from strong wind in spring for flowers. Tolerates clay soils.
    Needs some winter chill to set fruit.
    Fruits mid-Dec–March depending on variety
    (secret wish – old-fashioned greengages ...)

    Almond
    6 m or more high
    Need to plant in pairs for pollination.
    Requires hot dry summers and cool winters to bear well.
    Well-drained, salt-free soil.
    Young trees are frost tender.
    Start to produce in 2–3 years

    Hazelnut
    3.5–4.5 m high
    Full sun or part shade
    Moist but well-drained, chalky soil
    Needs about 1,000 hours below 7 degrees for fruit to set.
    Produces in 5–7 years

    Chestnut might be another possible, see factsheet
    Summary: Japanese chestnuts up to 10m but less hardy, other varieties 15–20 m high; plant 6 m apart; prefers free-draining soil.

    Other nut trees seem to be enormous: e.g., walnut - 15–30 m high.

    Sources: Yates Garden Guide; New Zealand Pocket Gardening Encyclopedia; Design Your Own Orchard (Kay Baxter).
  • Great stuff Joanna, I'll print off this list and bring it to the next planning meeting

    Joanna Morton said:
    Here's what I'd love to see, plus some notes on what they require. I don't know whether our site is going to be appropriate for all of these, but this is a start to thinking about it. It would also be great to complement the trees we planted at the first site by planting extra/different varieties of apples, pears etc., to extend the fruiting season.

    Quince
    3.5–4.5 m high, can also get dwarf forms
    Plant 3–6 m apart
    Need moist, deep soil (!) and a sunny location
    Thrive in cooler-temperate climates
    Fruits March–May

    Plum
    9 m or more high (maybe you can get dwarf varieties though?)
    Plant 3–6 m apart
    Fruits in summer
    Moist, well-drained soil in full sun with some protection from strong wind in spring for flowers. Tolerates clay soils.
    Needs some winter chill to set fruit.
    Fruits mid-Dec–March depending on variety
    (secret wish – old-fashioned greengages ...)

    Almond
    6 m or more high
    Need to plant in pairs for pollination.
    Requires hot dry summers and cool winters to bear well.
    Well-drained, salt-free soil.
    Young trees are frost tender.
    Start to produce in 2–3 years

    Hazelnut
    3.5–4.5 m high
    Full sun or part shade
    Moist but well-drained, chalky soil
    Needs about 1,000 hours below 7 degrees for fruit to set.
    Produces in 5–7 years

    Chestnut might be another possible, see factsheet
    Summary: Japanese chestnuts up to 10m but less hardy, other varieties 15–20 m high; plant 6 m apart; prefers free-draining soil.

    Other nut trees seem to be enormous: e.g., walnut - 15–30 m high.

    Sources: Yates Garden Guide; New Zealand Pocket Gardening Encyclopedia; Design Your Own Orchard (Kay Baxter).
  • Here's what I'd love to see, plus some notes on what they require. I don't know whether our site is going to be appropriate for all of these, but this is a start to thinking about it. It would also be great to complement the trees we planted at the first site by planting extra/different varieties of apples, pears etc., to extend the fruiting season.

    Quince
    3.5–4.5 m high, can also get dwarf forms
    Plant 3–6 m apart
    Need moist, deep soil (!) and a sunny location
    Thrive in cooler-temperate climates
    Fruits March–May

    Plum
    9 m or more high (maybe you can get dwarf varieties though?)
    Plant 3–6 m apart
    Fruits in summer
    Moist, well-drained soil in full sun with some protection from strong wind in spring for flowers. Tolerates clay soils.
    Needs some winter chill to set fruit.
    Fruits mid-Dec–March depending on variety
    (secret wish – old-fashioned greengages ...)

    Almond
    6 m or more high
    Need to plant in pairs for pollination.
    Requires hot dry summers and cool winters to bear well.
    Well-drained, salt-free soil.
    Young trees are frost tender.
    Start to produce in 2–3 years

    Hazelnut
    3.5–4.5 m high
    Full sun or part shade
    Moist but well-drained, chalky soil
    Needs about 1,000 hours below 7 degrees for fruit to set.
    Produces in 5–7 years

    Chestnut might be another possible, see factsheet
    Summary: Japanese chestnuts up to 10m but less hardy, other varieties 15–20 m high; plant 6 m apart; prefers free-draining soil.

    Other nut trees seem to be enormous: e.g., walnut - 15–30 m high.

    Sources: Yates Garden Guide; New Zealand Pocket Gardening Encyclopedia; Design Your Own Orchard (Kay Baxter).
  • I agree, one tree fruiting each at different parts of the year would be a great example (and so yummy!). Will investigate.

    Jamie Murphy said:
    Yeah a few nut trees would be great. Probably be a good idea to plant trees so that something is in season all year round (if possible)
  • Yeah a few nut trees would be great. Probably be a good idea to plant trees so that something is in season all year round (if possible)
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